Not a skier? You are in excellent company — and the French Alps in winter have far more to offer than the slopes. An increasing number of resorts have transformed themselves into genuine destinations for non-skiers: thermal spas, glacier cable cars, snowshoe trails, dog sledding, ice climbing, Michelin-starred restaurants and some of the most beautiful mountain villages in Europe. This guide is for those who want to enjoy the mountains in winter without putting on a pair of skis.
10 ideal resorts for a winter visit without skiing
For the best non-skiing winter experience, the best choice is generally a village resort rather than a purpose-built ski complex. The atmosphere is more authentic, the centre is easier to explore on foot and the non-skiing activities are typically more varied. Here are our ten recommendations.
Chamonix — alpine art de vivre at the foot of Mont Blanc ⭐
More than a ski resort, Chamonix is a genuine mountain town — vibrant and cosmopolitan year-round. It is the perfect destination for those seeking spectacular panoramas and an almost unlimited activity offer without touching a ski slope.
- Aiguille du Midi cable car: take the cable car to 3,842 m and enjoy a 360° panorama over the French, Swiss and Italian Alps — in the heart of the glaciers and facing Mont Blanc. Don’t miss “Le Pas dans le Vide” — a glass box suspended 1,000 m above the void.
- Montenvers rack railway and the Mer de Glace: board the famous red cog railway to reach France’s largest glacier. Visit the ice cave and the Glaciorium exhibition on Alpine glaciers.
- Explore the town: Chamonix’s pedestrian centre is one of the most animated in the Alps — galleries, boutiques, excellent restaurants and a genuine cosmopolitan energy at altitude.
Megève — elegance and charm in a prestigious village
Megève combines the soul of a Savoyard village with the chic of a resort created by the Rothschild family. Its cosy, refined atmosphere — cobbled streets, horse-drawn sleighs, luxury hotels — makes it ideal for a romantic break or a week of pure indulgence without skiing.
- Le Palais des Sports: the largest sport and wellness complex in the Alps — pool, Olympic skating rink, spa, climbing wall and more.
- Horse-drawn sleigh rides: the emblematic Megève experience — a magical and distinctly elegant way to explore the village and its surroundings.
- Starred gastronomy: Megève has the finest concentration of restaurants in the Alps. Flocons de Sel holds 3 Michelin stars — one of the great tables in France.
Saint-Gervais — natural wellbeing at the foot of Mont Blanc
An elegant thermal resort at the foot of Mont Blanc, Saint-Gervais combines mountain pleasures with the benefits of naturally warm spring water. A perfect year-round destination for those who want to recharge rather than ski.
- Thermes de Saint-Gervais: entirely renovated thermal baths using naturally warm, therapeutic spring water — indoor and outdoor circuits.
- Tramway du Mont-Blanc: one of the highest rack railways in France, climbing to the Plateau de Bellevue for exceptional panoramas and snowshoe trails.
- Cultural visits: baroque heritage throughout the region, with Chamonix, Megève and the remarkable Plateau d’Assy church all within easy reach.
Bonneval-sur-Arc — a perfectly preserved stone village
One of the “Plus Beaux Villages de France”, Bonneval-sur-Arc is a treasure of authenticity at the foot of the Vanoise glaciers. Its stone-walled houses and lauze slate roofs give it a timeless quality — the ideal destination for a complete digital detox.
- Explore the village: wander the entirely preserved old village — no modern construction visible anywhere. Hot chocolate, unhurried walking — this is what mountains in winter can be.
- Snowshoe to the hamlet of l’Ecot: an easy marked trail to a listed historic hamlet — a genuine end-of-the-world feeling in a magnificent Vanoise setting.
- Ice climbing initiation: the area is renowned for its frozen waterfalls. A first session with a guide is reportedly much more accessible than it looks.
Briançon / Serre Chevalier — UNESCO heritage and open air
Combining a cultural visit with a mountain stay is entirely possible at Serre Chevalier, whose main town Briançon is UNESCO World Heritage listed for its Vauban fortifications. Southern Alps sunshine, thermal water and a warm welcome — a genuinely exceptional base for non-skiers.
- Briançon Vauban citadel: explore the fortified streets of Europe’s highest town — a UNESCO site of real historical depth.
- Les Grands Bains du Monêtier: naturally warm spring water, indoor and outdoor pools facing the mountains — one of the finest thermal experiences in the Alps.
- Nordic walking and snowshoeing: the Guisane valley offers beautiful trails; the Clarée valley, Vallouise and the Queyras are renowned for their winter landscapes.
Morzine — chic village with multi-activity offer
At the heart of the vast Portes du Soleil domain, Morzine is a large Savoyard village that has retained its authentic character — slate-roofed chalets and good family hotels.
- Parc des Dérêches: a complex with ice rink, indoor pool and wellness area.
- Ice diving in Lac de Montriond: an unusual and memorable experience for the genuinely adventurous.
- Visit the cheese dairy: discover the secrets of Abondance AOP cheese production — one of the great Alpine cheeses.
Samoëns — the charm of a preserved village
One of the most beautiful villages in Haute-Savoie, Samoëns has a genuine heritage — a tradition of stonemasons whose craftsmanship is visible throughout the village — and an excellent family atmosphere.
- Village and hamlet walk: stroll around the Gros Tilleul (a centuries-old lime tree) and admire the local architecture in the pedestrian streets.
- Jaÿsinia alpine botanical garden: even in winter, this “Jardin Remarquable” offers a pleasant walk in the heart of the village.
- Nordic activities: snowshoeing and dog sledding in the magnificent Haut-Giffre landscapes — the Col de Joux Plane and the Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval.
La Clusaz — tradition and animation in the Aravis
A family resort par excellence, La Clusaz is known for its convivial atmosphere and wide range of activities for all ages, in the magnificent Aravis massif setting.
- Espace Aquatique des Aravis: indoor and heated outdoor pools with views over the mountains.
- Buy a farm Reblochon: visit a farm to learn about Reblochon fermier production — the emblematic cheese of the Aravis massif, the key ingredient of tartiflette.
- Explore the leisure activities: sledging, pony-sledging for children, and a giant altitude swing.
Valloire — the village resort at the foot of the Galibier
In the Maurienne, Valloire is a lively village resort that has preserved its genuine village soul. It is also known for its monumental snow and ice sculptures. Two cable cars provide access to altitude from the village centre.
- Ice rink and bowling: excellent for a family day or an evening out.
- International snow sculpture competition: if you are there in January, this spectacular and atmospheric event is not to be missed.
- Heritage visit: the Baroque church of Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption is one of the finest in the Maurienne.
Autrans — Nordic escape on the Vercors plateau
For a gentler, nature-centred experience, Autrans — at the heart of the Vercors regional park — is the cross-country skiing capital of the Alps and a paradise for snowshoers and walkers.
- Snowshoeing: explore the vast Vercors plateaux on beautifully marked trails — some of the finest snowshoe terrain in France.
- Dog sledding: an immersive and memorable experience, from a simple introduction to learning to drive your own team.
- Caving (spéléologie): the Vercors is a major caving destination, with caves accessible even in winter for an unusual and memorable adventure.
Activities — what to do in the mountains without skiing
For the active
- Ski touring (ski de randonnée): more physical and closer to nature than downhill skiing — climbing the mountain on “skins” before descending through powder snow. Requires instruction; guided tours are widely available.
- Cross-country skiing (ski de fond): on groomed trails, in classic style or skating — covering long distances through the winter landscape. Equipment hire and trail passes are much cheaper than downhill skiing.
- Snowshoeing: the essential non-skiing mountain activity — walking in the snow on plastic snowshoes attached to your boots. No technique required. Many marked trails and guided tours available in every resort.
- Dog sledding: a magical experience whether for a single introductory run or a full day learning to drive your own team.
- Fat biking: wide-tyre mountain bikes designed for snow — an increasingly popular and surprisingly accessible winter activity.
- Ice climbing: the Alps have some of the finest frozen waterfalls in Europe. A first session with a guide is reportedly far more accessible than it looks.
For wellness and relaxation
- Spa and thermal baths: most large resorts have excellent wellness facilities — outdoor hot tubs facing the peaks, saunas, hammams and treatment rooms. During ski hours, these are at their quietest. See our guide to the best spa centres in French ski resorts.
- Yoga at altitude: an increasing number of studios offer sessions with mountain views — a genuinely unusual way to reconnect with yourself.
- Pedestrian lift passes (forfait piéton): most resorts sell a cheaper pedestrian pass allowing access to cable cars and gondolas — perfect for a lunch on a mountain restaurant terrace at 2,000 m without touching a ski slope.
For curious minds and food lovers
- Cheese farm visits: Reblochon at La Clusaz, Abondance at Morzine, Beaufort at Beaufort — each has cooperative or farm visits. See our guide to the best French Alpine cheeses.
- Cultural and heritage visits: Briançon (UNESCO), Bonneval-sur-Arc (preserved medieval village), Valloire (baroque church), Chamonix (Glaciorium, alpine history museum).
- Savoyard gastronomy: fondue, raclette, tartiflette, croziflette — winter food in the Alps is genuinely excellent. Most resort restaurants serve these dishes properly, with quality local cheese and charcuterie.
What about going outside the ski resorts?
When you are not skiing, it is sometimes more logical to stay outside the resort altogether. Prices are lower and you will not have skiers streaming past you at all hours. The trade-off is a more limited tourist infrastructure — but for those who want a genuinely quiet, contemplative winter mountain experience, this can be an advantage rather than a limitation.
Some excellent off-piste winter bases in the French Alps:
- Auberge des Glières (Haute-Savoie): a hotel in full mountain country — snowshoeing and cross-country skiing from the door. aubergedesglieres.fr
- Chalet de Plainpalais (Bauges, Savoie): a contemporary organic guesthouse and café at the Col de Plainpalais, 20 minutes from Chambéry and 1h15 from Lyon. chaletplainpalais.fr
The massifs with the most beautiful winter landscapes and least tourist infrastructure — Bauges, Chartreuse, Triève, Valgaudemar, Queyras — are all worth exploring for gîtes, chambres d’hôtes and isolated chalets. For finding secluded mountain accommodation, searching by map on accommodation platforms and looking for high-altitude chalets can reveal genuinely exceptional spots.
Absolutely — and increasingly so. The combination of thermal spas, glacier cable cars, snowshoeing, dog sledding, village life, starred restaurants and some of Europe’s most beautiful mountain architecture makes a non-skiing winter holiday in the French Alps genuinely excellent. The key is choosing the right resort — village resorts like Chamonix, Megève, Saint-Gervais and Bonneval-sur-Arc work far better for non-skiers than purpose-built modernist complexes.
A forfait piéton is a reduced-price lift pass that allows non-skiers to use the cable cars and gondolas to access altitude — for a mountain restaurant lunch, a snowshoe walk at 2,000 m or simply the view. Prices vary by resort but are typically 30–50% cheaper than a full ski pass. Most large resorts offer them; ask at the lift pass office on arrival.
Chamonix, Megève and Saint-Gervais are the best options for mixed groups. All three have extensive non-skiing activities (Chamonix’s Aiguille du Midi cable car and Mer de Glace, Megève’s spa complex and horse-drawn sleighs, Saint-Gervais’s thermal baths and Tramway du Mont-Blanc) alongside full ski access for those who want it. Morzine and La Clusaz are also excellent for mixed groups.
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